Health Tip #1
If your horse is ill and you call the vet, he will check your horse's vital signs - Temperature, pulse and respiration. Your horse's vital signs can change drastically when he's ill, compared to when he's feeling fine. Get to know your horse's NORMAL vital signs so you will know what is not normal for him.
TEMPERATURE: Normal is around 100 to 101 degrees F.
Take your horse's temp. for a few days at different times to establish what is normal for him.
Anything below 96 degrees or above 104 degrees means you have a problem.
PULSE: Normal (resting) is 32 to 48 beats per minute
To take the pulse, use a stethoscope and find the heartbeat on the left side behind his left elbow, just beside where the girth lays. Once you can hear a steady beat, look at the second hand of your watch. Count the strong-sounding beats for 30 seconds and multiply by 2 for an accurate one minute result.
The pulse can also be felt by using your fingertips on different pulse points, like on the inside of his left knee or inside his left jawbone. Know your horses rate at resting. Take his pulse after a strenuous workout, wait or hand walk the horse for 10 min and take pulse again. Compare the two numbers - was the second pulse rate within 20 beats of his normal resting rate? If so, your horse is handling his workouts very well. If not, he's working too hard.
RESPIRATION: Normal is 4 to 24 breaths per minute
Stand by your horse's left shoulder and face his rear. Watch the flank move in and out - right where the rib cage ends. Check the second hand of your watch and count the # of times the flank moves in OR out for 15 seconds and X by 4 for your one min. count. Know your horses normal respiration.
Colic
What It Is
A term used to describe a large range of abdominal discomforts, colic can be anything from a twisted intestine to an enterolith to worm infestations. Colic is the #1 natural killer of horses.
Common Causes
Colic can be caused by many things. Here are some common causes:
Sand Colic: When horses ingest sand. Horses that are fed on sandy ground or have access to it may eat small bits of sand. Over time, the sand will build up in the intestines and eventually cause discomfort. The horse may be carrying 30-80 pounds before showing signs of colic.
Over feeding: If a horse breaks into the feed area and gorges itself colic could result.
Parasitism: Worm infestations disrupt circulation in the intestines, or blood clots and bits of dead worms may cause blockages.
Irregular Feed Schedule: This may cause a horse to wolf feed if he gets really hungry. Feeding right after work or if horse is still hot also can cause horse to come down with colic.
Sudden Changes in Feed: When you change feeds, or introduce new feed, be sure you do so slowly!
Bad Feed: Moldy or rotten feed may cause colic.
Ingestion of Non-feed materials: Stones, sticks, twine, and wood splinters are examples. Cribbers or horses that chew wood have a risk of swallowing bits and getting colic.
Fine Grain: Sometimes it will pack together and cause blockages in the intestine.
Poisons: Some poisons may cause colic. Moldy feed may cause mold poisoning and colic.
Twisted Intestines: Very severe and life-threatening. There are different types of twists in different areas, and they each have names. Here are a few:
Strangulation: When parts of intestine become entangled in tears in the supportive membrane.
Incarceration: Intestine is caught in inguinal ring of male horses, and blood supply is cut off by twisting.
Intussusception: One part of the intestine falls into the other. More common in foals than older horses.
Most colics can be classified as one of these 3 types:
Intestinal Dysfunction
The horse's digestive tract is not working properly. Impaction, paralysis, and excessive gas are examples. This type is the most common.
Intestinal Accidents
This is where the intestines are injured or torn, and are less common than the type mentioned above, but usually require emergency surgery.
Enteritis or Ulcerations
This is a colic caused by infections, inflammations, and disease in the intestine, which can be caused by many factors, such as parasites and stress.
Signs
The first signs you may see are uneasiness and a personality change. The horse may be uninterested in food or drink, and may act sleepy or dull. The temperature may be slightly higher than normal, but the respiration and pulse will usually be normal. Later on, the horse may swish its tail, stomp a hind leg, turn and look at belly, or nip its sides. It may also roll its eyes, snort, or groan. As the pain increases, the horse may kick its belly and lie on the ground and stretch. It may also stretch as if to urinate, or may make attempts to defecate with no success or may have diarrhea. It may roll lightly, get up and walk in circles, then lie down and roll again. It may also walk aimlessly into fences or walls. As the colic worsens, the horse may bite its sides, kick and thrash, and may roll madly. NEVER let a colicking horse roll, because it could twist an intestine and cause serious injury! Try to get the horse up, even if it means yelling at or hitting the horse. Be VERY CAREFUL- a colicing horse in severe pain doesn't care what or who you are, it may step on you or crush you accidentally. During this time, the horse's only focus is trying to rid itself of pain, and it won't be aware of its surroundings. It may walk into walls or fences or step on things. You should catch it and, if it is rolling, make it stand; then, proceed to walk it for about 15 minutes.
Symptoms of colic include...
Rolling excessively
Sweating
Pawing
Kicking at belly
Looking at or biting belly
Change in attitude, or depression
Lack of appetite
Unable to defecate
Little or no gut sounds
Sitting like a dog or lying down
Stretching out as if to urinate
Restlessness, or lying down, getting up, lying down again, etc.
Treatment:
If you suspect your horse has colic, record all the symptoms it is showing, take the horse's vital signs, then call the vet immediately and tell him what you've observed. Return to the horse, walk him for about 15 minutes, then release him in a safe area and watch his behavior. A simple colic can quickly turn deadly without prompt attention. If you horse is already rolling on the ground, thrashing, and sweating, get him up as soon as possible! A horse that is rolling may twist an intestine or complicate an otherwise minor colic. Remember, a colicing horse may be dangerous to be around since it is in pain. Move carefully and be aware when with one. You may have to pull on or even hit the horse to get it go rise, but even if you have to, it's better to do it than to let your horse roll and complicate his colic. If you cannot get the horse up and it is pounding its head against the ground, get a pillow, blanket, or other soft material and carefully place it under the animal's head.
If the weather is extreme, provide shelter for the horse by putting him in a safe stall or barn, and if that is not available, a garage or shed may work. If there is anyway for the horse to harm himself, do not turn him loose, but have someone hold him. Keep all food and water away from the horse until the vet arrives. Try to keep the horse as calm as possible, and keep it from rolling if possible. You may want to walk the horse for a few minutes, then let the horse stand or lie relaxed.
DO NOT CONTINUE TO WALK THE HORSE. Many people will walk a horse for hours, until it is weak and exhausted. Walking can do a bit of good, but over-walking can weaken the horse and even lead to death if the colic turns severe. If the horse isn't feeling better after 15 minutes of walking, then 3 more hours won't make a difference, either. Most likely, if a little walking doesn't help, the horse will require surgery, and if it's been over-walked, it is less likely to live through the surgery and fully recover. If you do walk the horse too much, it's nervous system may shut down, creating more problems. There are many people that will walk a horse for hours, even all night long, thinking that it will do some good. It won't.
Do not EVER administer any colic drugs without talking to your vet. Do not use a product called 'Canadian Bells', because it may shut down the functions of the intestines, complicating the colic. Do not use any products that contain Atropine. Though it may relieve pain quickly, it also slows or stops intestinal action, and sometimes the intestines may not recover. Enemas, too, are useless in adult horses; they just create more pain for a colicing horse.
Tranquilizers will NOT make the horse feel any better or prevent the colic from worsening. They should NEVER be used unless the horse is acting so crazy that it is impossible to treat him. They lower the blood pressure, which may increase risk of death in some colics. Tranquilizers are rarely used on colicing horses.
DO NOT EVER administer mineral oil yourself. The horse may inhale it and die. Instead, leave it up to your vet; he/she will pass a stomach tube and give the oil that way.
Once your vet arrives he will try to determine what is wrong with the horse, and he may do a rectal examination, abdominal tap, or listen to the horse's gut sounds. Most likely, he will administer pain killers such as Phenylbutazone, Butraphol, or Morphine. If the colic is due to muscle spasms, he will likely administer a muscle relaxant, and if it's an impaction he will give a laxative. Laxatives containing antibiotics may be given via stomach tube to kill any gas-causing bacteria and to help clear the intestines. A gallon or more of mineral oil may be given via stomach tube if the horse has gorged himself on feed, is impacted, or has been poisoned. If the colic is caused by a twist or a severe blockage, surgery may be needed. If a section of the intestine has been twisted or blocked for long, it may die off. That section will have to be removed, and the healthy ends stitched together. Colic surgery is often expensive, but it may be needed to save the horse's life.
If you are planning to go camping or trail riding a long way from vets or doctors, be sure to pack a good first aid kit to treat both horse and human injuries. Include Phenylbutazone tablets (horse pain reliever) in your kit, and use them according to your vet's prescription. If your horse colics and help is far away, you can give these to relieve the pain. They won't cure the colic, and they will stop the symptoms, but they will give your horse some relief. Walk the horse for 30 minutes to an hour to get him to relax, and hopefully feel better. There isn't a whole lot you can do without a vet, but the best thing is to prevent colic in the first place by having a regular deworming schedule, good feed and feeding habits, and clean water.
Recovery
Only about 10% of horses die from colic, but it is still the leading natural killer of horses. Colics due to torsions and intestinal twists are nearly 100% fatal unless promptly treated.
The horse is most likely to recover if his pulse has not reached 60 (normal is 26-40),if his temperature is around normal, and if he gets prompt treatment. Horses that have pulses over 80, elevated temperatures, and are still showing symptoms after 24 hours have a very slim chance of pulling through. The longer you wait to get treatment, the less likely the horse is to survive. If the colic is bad and an emergency operation is needed, QUICKLY decide if you want to save the horse or not. It's not good to wait four hours then decide you'll operate; the longer you wait, the less chance of survival the horse has.
After the vet has treated your horse, in most cases within an hour or two he should show relief and his symptoms should decrease. His temperature and pulse, if previously elevate, should return to normal. He should stop sweating, and should act calmer and happier. If the condition doesn't improve or worsens, call your vet again and let him know.
Founder
What it is
Also called laminitis, founder is an inflammation of the laminae of the hoof. Mostly the front hooves are affected, but in sever cases all four feet may get it. It is very painful to the horse.
Causes
Alot of things may cause founder, but here are some of the most common types of founder, and causes:
1. Grain Founder
A horse that gets excess feed, or gets into a grain bag and gorges itself may develop founder. All grains may cause founder, but the most likely are barely, corn, and wheat.
2. Grass Founder
A horse that graze rich pasture, like legume pastures, may develop grass founder. Ponies and fat horses are more likely to founder from rich feed than horses in normal weight.
3. Water Founder
When an overheated horse drinks water, in is very likely to come down with colic, but some horses may get founder instead. If water is frozen over or very cold, a horse may not drink until its thirst becomes almost unbearable. Then, the horse may break the ice and suddenly consume sever gallons of cold water. This is very likely to cause colic and/or founder.
4. Road Founder
When a horse is worked on hard ground, they can founder. Long rides in horse trailers without cushioning flooring may also cause road founder.
5. Postparturient Founder
After a mare foals, if the uterus retains some of the membranes that surround the foal, founder can occur. A uterine infection is also likely to develop.
6. Other Causes:
Founder may occur in horses that are under stress. Hormonal imbalances may induce it, and mares with abnormal or extremely prolonged heat cycles may become foundered.
Some drugs may cause founder.
Black walnut shavings may cause sever founder, so do not ever use any shavings containing black walnut wood as a bedding.
Horses that must stand in the same position without much excersise will usually develop founder. The reason for this is the legs get no rest and can become sore. Also, the horse with little exercise may become fat enough to put extra strain on the hooves. Stalled horses should have exercise every day, and those that are given little should have their feed carefully monitored. Sea faring horses are a good example, they get little exercise so they must be fed less than a horse that is ridden every day. Premarin mares, which are given a lot of food and little exercise, are extremely susceptible to founder, and it has been reported that many of them go lame.
A horse with a sever leg injury may develop founder in the other legs, if they put enough weight on them.
Some large-bodied or fat horses with small feet may come down with founder. Some halter horses, which are usually very fat, get founder because their feet are too small to support the huge, abnormal weight. Some horses may inherit tiny feet, and therefor be likely to develop founder.
Signs
Acute Laminitis:
Early on, the horse's trot may be stilted, and as the condition worsens, the walk too may be stilted, and the horse will be reluctant to move. He may stand with his hind feet up under his body, to take weight off the front end. The front feet too may be set forward. Over the fetlock joint, a throbbing pulse may be felt, and the hooves will usually warm or hot. The sole of the hoof will be really tender and painful, especially near the point of the frog. Anxiety and muscular trembling due to pain will probably be seen. The horse's temperature and respiratory rate will increase, and membranes may turn a brownish color. In grain founder, symptoms may not occur until 12-18 hours after horse has eaten feed, and diarrhea will probably develop. Rotation of the coffin bone may occur in sever cases only 12 hours after injury or ingestion of grain has occurred.
Death is rare, but not unknown.
Chronic Laminitis
Downward rotation of the coffin bone is usual, and in sever cases it may even push through the sole of the hoof, usually resulting in euthanasia of the horse. Rapid growth of the hoof wall is caused by chronic laminitis, and the horse's hooves may grow to be over 12 inches long, with a huge bend and a 'melted' appearence. Huge ridges will form on the hoof due to inflammatory changes at the coronet band. Affected animals will be in pain, and stand as mentioned above, to relieve themselves of some pain. Pulse and heat can be felt around the fetlock, and will show pain if tested with hoof testers. It is usually difficult to determine the cause of the founder.
Treatment of Acute Laminitis
If you suspect your horse has founder, call the vet IMMEADIATELY. Failure to do so may result in permanent damage to the horse, or even death.
If you find your horse foundered in a pasture, DO NOT move him if he won't agreeably go! Moving a foundered horse may worsen the problem and cause the coffin bone to rotate.
The treatment will vary depending on severity and type of founder.
Grain foundered horses will usually be given a laxative or mineral oil. Don't feed the horse bran or any other slow-acting laxative in hope that it might work. Get your vet to treat the horse!
Antihistamines and pain relieving drugs are usually given. Corticosteroids are not recommended, because they have been shown to cause laminitis. Oral antibiotics may be used also, to help kill the bacteria that are producing endotoxins in the horse's digestive tract.
If a horse is going into shock from the pain, the vet may give intravenous fluids. Standing the horse in a cool stream or mud may relieve pain temporarily, but isn't a good idea because it slows the circulation, the opposite of what needs to happen. Soaking the hooves in warm water will help more by expanding the blood vessels and increasing circulation.
Allow the horse to lie down if he wishes.
Shoes should be removed, but only if the feet can be picked up without too much discomfort to the horse. If not, the nails may be cut with a sharp chisel or a hoof nipper, but DO NOT ever hammer on the horse's hoof unless the nerves have been blocked! Hammering on a foundered foot is a horrible form of torture, and not only will it be unbearably painful to the horse, it will only make the laminitis worse.
Your vet may prescribe mild exercise after painkillers have been administered, to help circulation. Grain should be eliminated from the horse's diet, and other oral drugs might be administered.
Other founders may be treated in other ways, but the most important thing to do is contact a vet as soon as possible.
Treatment of Chronic Laminitis
If rotation has occured and the coffin bone has penetrated the sole of the hoof, usually nothing can be done. If the horse is restored, it probably will use all usefulness, but may be able to breed. Because of this, everything must be done to prevent the coffin bone from protruding. Chronic founder should be treated with regular care. The hooves should be trimmed as normally as possible, and much more often than normal. Frequent trimming helps keep the toe from growing too long, which would throw the foot off balance.
Corrective shoes may be needed, and the hoof might need to be shaped in such a way as too take pressure off of the coffin bone and to help prevent penetration.
Weight control is very important. Fat horses have less of a chance of recovery than normal weight. The more weight the horse is carrying, the more pressure on the hooves. Many foundered horses must have their diets controlled for the rest of their lives.
Recovery
Horses with founder may or may not recover fully to be useful again. Some will only recover enough to be used as broodmares. If symptoms persist for more than ten days, full recovery is unlikely. With some founders, such as those associated with hormonal imbalances, may last for more than a year without causing much pain or abnormalities to the hooves. Rotation of the coffin bone is unfavorable. If it penetrates the sole, it is unlikely the horse will recover, as infections of the laminae will probably result.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Natural Complementary approaches to Equine De-Worming
Internal parasitic infestations are among the most damaging health problems in equine management. The parasites that are considered the most significant in equine health are blood worms, botts, roundworms, pinworms and thread worms in foals.
A multitude of health problems are directly related to these parasitic infestations, that can greatly decrease the quality of life and performance capabilities in any horse, from a simple pleasure horse to a highly trained equine athlete.
Some of the health problems associated with parasitic infestations include: weakness, damage to the liver and pancreas, damage to the intestinal tract and the intestinal arteries, colic, damage to the arteries of the hind legs with a decrease in strength and endurance of the legs, recurring low grade colic, damage to the mouth, throat and stomach, ulcers, diarrhea or diarrhea alternating with constipation, intestinal bleeding and inflammation, anemia, nasal discharge, lung damage, slow growth, anorexia, chronic weight loss, pot-belly appearance poor coat, coughing, intermittent fever, listlessness, poor condition, subcutaneous water retention and a general decrease in health status.
Since parasitic infestations can contribute to such a large number of potential health problems a regular de-worming program and a regular internal parasite exam are essential parts of normal equine health care.
It is well documented that today’s conventional worming programs are effective. However an increasing number of health conscious owners and trainers are becoming aware of a variety of natural herbal, mineral and other plant extracts that offer a safe and effective complimentary approach to the healthy de-worming of their horses.
The herb garlic is widely known for is healing properties, particularly with respect to its benefits as an anti-microbial and anti-parasitic. Garlic contains a number of natural components, many containing sulfur that are effective against a number of parasites.
The feed grade mineral diatomaceous earth exerts a specific mechanical action that damages and destroys the parasite protective covering in the intestinal tract with out harming the intestinal tissue.
The herb wormwood used wisely is also beneficial in a natural anti parasite program because it contains natural compounds that can reduce parasite load. Oil of clove has its value as an anti-inflammatory to the delicate tissues of the gastro-intestinal tract, an area that can be damaged by many parasites. Clove oil has also demonstrated antiseptic and anti-bacterial properties.
A number of other natural substances have great value in a complimentary program for equine de-worming including pumpkin seeds, plant enzymes, oregon grape and many others.
A proper balance of herbal extracts, mineral and plant compounds is essential to a successful, natural and anti-parasitic program. The design of a natural full-spectrum anti-parasitic has to consider the active ingredients of each plant as well as the compatibility of these active ingredient in a balanced formulation.
The Natural Horse Vet has recently formulated just such a balanced anti-parasitic formula to optimize the benefits of your complimentary de-worming program. A proprietary blend of the most effective and compatible plant, mineral and herbal substances has been compounded in a specific ratio to give the greatest benefit to your horses’ health.
For more information of this natural anti-parasitic formula you can contact The Natural Horse Vet at 877-873-8838 or via email to gweaver1@charter.net.
Here is a great article from Dr. Dan Moore, know as "The Natural Horse Vet".
I think the information will be helpful to you.
Gene Weaver
Winter Woes
The answer to winter woes is easy – simply move south! It worked for me, believe it or not - as a child I used to live in New Jersey ! My southern accent now assures those who hear it that times have changed! Honestly, times (i.e. the weather) have changed for the north as well. It just doesn't seem as wintry anymore. Of course, my friends in Vermont would disagree! Around the beginning of January the temperature is about 35 degrees below. I honestly can’t imagine such temperatures, but the natives tolerate it well, and so do their many gaited Mountain Horses. Why? Partially because the breed is a hardy one, but perhaps mostly because people are prepared – and well before the cold sets in. The most obvious preparation is adequate shelter for their horses. Despite what you might think, a windbreak of any sort and a roof over their heads is all that is needed for most. Only those who simply have never been exposed to extreme weather should have a problem. This brings up the subject of acclimation. Common sense would tell one to gradually introduce our four legged friends to any extreme weather. Never just “throw them out” into the cold unless they are used to it. Fortunately Mother Nature generally prepares all horses for winter. Heavy coats, a little extra fat, and usually all will well.
Aside from shelter and acclimation, winter nutrition is critical. In most situations hay, alone, will not suffice. Of course, plenty of good hay is a must - even before the onset of the cold. Before the grass is even gone you should start feeding hay. This assures your horses put on the fat. I don't mean belly- busting fat, which is not good for any beast, but just pleasantly plump. I would define pleasantly plump as where you can't see any ribs showing, and they just look “a little” fat. At any time of year other than winter, one should be able to feel but not see the ribs.
In addition to hay, another way to add a little extra fat is to feed a little extra fat. The key to this fat is feeding the “right fat”, which is often hard to find in horse feeds today. Many feeds contain cheap corn or vegetable oil, which are processed and/or hydrogenated in some fashion. These oils are cheaper for the manufacturer and, honestly, are more stable (which is important to the stores if feed is stored for any length of time), but are awful for any horse’s body (or ours, our pets’, or that of any living species). Also, when fats are processed, the “goodie” is filtered out and sold elsewhere. Natural, unprocessed, GMO free (if available) oils still contain the “goodies”. “Goodies” include such natural preservatives as vitamin E, tocopherols, and sterols, which are fairly stable, albeit more costly. In my humble opinion, the real cause of obese horses - summer, winter, or any time - in what we often call “insulin resistant” or “metabolic” horses - is processed fats. They cause these conditions by interfering with the exchange of nutrients at the cellular membrane level, disallowing the good nutrition to enter and the waste to exit. The key to avoiding this situation is good fats, not processed or hydrogenated fats. Personally, I like soy bean oil for horses. Soy beans provide “calm calories”, as opposed to the “hot calories” that one might get from corn oil. By the weigh- I mean way(!)- most of the “weight builder” types of products that one sees on the market have these processed fats as the main ingredients. Please read the labels!
Check the labels good and try your best to avoid feeds with corn and molasses. For instance, corn is essentially all calories, effectively just all sugar. Just like sweet feed, corn is definitely not a healthy diet - even in the dead of winter. Granted, heat is produced from the burning of the calories, but corn has the same glycemic index as sugar, and obviously the molasses in sweet feed is sugar. I recently read about top trainer who actually recommends molasses for its nutritional benefits. I am sorry, but I totally disagree! Anything that causes a spike in sugar (even eating a candy bar) causes a subsequent spike in insulin. These spikes of highs and lows lead to insulin resistance, which also creates other metabolic issues: the laminitis prone, the cushinoid- all those fat horses that are on the edge of illness.
Rather than corn or sweet feed, I prefer to feed oats. Add to these oats the good fats and always a vitamin/mineral supplement, and you have the best feed for any time of the year. For a little more fat in the winter, add a little more oil. Also, the nice thing about using oats rather then premixed feeds is that you can vary the amount given to each individual horse, and if you are adding the vitamin/mineral supplement to the amount of oats needed, each horse gets all of the vitamins, minerals, etc. they need each day. Let me ask you a question. What is the first thing you typically do for an easy keeper horse? The obvious thing is to cut back on the feed. The problem with that is, if you simply just cut back on a premixed feed, then obviously the horse will not be getting the necessary amounts of vitamins, minerals, etc… The subsequent lack of vitamins, minerals, enzymes, etc… then only leads to more metabolic issues.
It also goes without saying that water, not ice, is critical for winter health. If you live in an area where water freezes, heat it. Your local supplies store can advise you on what specifically is needed for that problem. Where I live freezing does occur, but only for a day or two at a time. We simply carry an ice breaker, like an ax, on the feed cart.
It is hard for me to discuss winter without mentioning spring. Good hay, fed all winter long, often has high potassium levels - after all, good hay is generally heavily fertilized right? You know, the 10-10-10 stuff? Nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. What happened to the rest of minerals on the Periodic Table we studied in high school? Something seems to be missing here. Back to the main point, too much potassium, in a short period of time, without chloride to balance it is deadly for a horse. This brings up a significant need for salt ( i.e sodium chloride) and plenty of it - and preferably not in the form of a block! Blocks should be outlawed for horses, in my opinion. They simply cannot get what they need fast enough. Horses need loose granular salt, preferably organic (not kiln dried and bleached and dead, like typical salt), and free choice - all they can eat - always available.
I also prefer natural minerals, not processed, or other industries’ left-overs. Good, soft, readily available calcium will help balance the excess phosphorus from fertilizers. I’m sure you’re aware that most of our grains today are heavily fertilized, as well. If we could only find a good inexpensive source of ORGANIC fertilizers, I truly believe our horses would be much healthier. I suspect many of you already have the answer to this problem piled up next to your barn. Now that’s a bunch of #$%*!
A salt deprived horse, such as one that only has access to a block, when springtime comes may over-consume the lush green grass, causing him to eat too much potassium. Understand that sodium and potassium are very similar substances. In fact, it is difficult for the horse to actually tell the difference. Here you could face a situation where the horse does not even desire sodium, or salt, and salt is very critical to things such as water consumption. The lack of water consumption, combined with dry hay can lead to impaction. Free choice, loose, natural salt and minerals simply have to be available at all times. (our product for this purpose is called RED Cal)
One other nutrient, frequently overlooked in winter, is beta carotene. Hay simply won’t provide it. If you want cycling early for breeding you need to consider supplementing it (Our oil contains beta carotene).
Geriatric horses and younger horses, in the winter, may require special attention (I refer to younger horses as horses under three). Parasites, especially in the winter, when horses are more stressed, can be a real issue, particularly for younger horses. Geriatric horses, honestly, are pretty much resistant to parasites by the time they reach their ripe old age. But if winter is especially harsh, stress can bring out the worst in all situations. My advice with regards to deworming has always been to obtain fecal exams prior to worming, rather than the simple indescriminant administration of worm medication on a time schedule - regardless of age. With this in mind, fecal exams in late fall for all of your horses would be an important consideration, followed by the appropriate dewormer, if parasites are present. Frankly, I suggest fecal exams on horses under 3 years of age every two or three months, and adult horses every four to five. Although it may be more trouble then simply giving a tube of dewormer, in my opinion it’s a much healthier alternative for both the horse and the environment. Parasite resistance from overuse of chemical dewormers is a serious and growing problem.
A basic and commonsense approach to good health, with perhaps a few twists, is the best approach to the woes potentially brought on by the winter months. You can hardly beat the combination of proper shelter,diet, attention to the most fundamentally necessary minerals as well as supplements (which may simply not be available in sufficient levels in the average horse’s diet), and appropriate deworming to stave off potential problems brought on by the stresses of cold weather. It is cheaper than moving south!!
